Michael Organiscak The lazy susan option definitely gained some speed after I gave it a go (and committed the sin of cutting a 15x15 baseplate to "brick top" up the thing.

At last word, our BrickStuff buddies -- in between assembling kits as they prepare to start filling orders soon -- appear to be inclined to both offer a kit (lazy susan with slip ring pre-installed), or a 'sold separately' do-it-yourself for those who either have the skills, inclination (or susan already in-house) to do it ourselves.  When I last peeked, the option isn't yet on the site, as this being late to the party appears to be a second-in-line on the work bench.  For the proposed price, both are outstanding options: the DIY kit was rumored to be priced at $25, the assembled slip-ring and susan (Amazon priced ~$24+ tax) put the two neck-and-neck... with the pre-assembled including "free" assembly at the cost of shipping (which Amazon may waive for Prime members and those who order enough); the susan I ordered is the same as the "Stuff" folks, link is above.

But hmmmm... that glass case display is an interesting idea -- that's not come up previously that I've seen -- but at least in my household, that wouldn't fly.  (My bride isn't so passionate as the chief play engineer, age 8, who likely won't let much dust settle between royal balls and other gala events.)  I initially was going to do a display setting, but it wasn't long before "8" decided this was going to be a daily play piece, hence, the lazy susan and placement among the under-construction carnival-themed area (the third of three themed areas around the house we've now got going)...

The little one is certainly not suffering for a lack of toys.  ;)

In terms of a display case -- assuming you're not looking to break the bank with a custom round case, I'd suggest plexiglass.  We have a local plastic place here that will custom fab stuff, but -- and I ain't *that* handy -- I found the quick-set glues and decent measurements would allow you to concoct a box with little effort.  (Talking four sides, a lid, and a base if you're thinking of being high class... but even a black rubber square base will seal things up and not require a lot of  prep or design work.)

And for strict display purposes, the lazy susan is optional, but if I were going nuts -- and why not, we're here -- motorize a rotational mechanism.  (LEGO motor and some gears - google up the YouTube videos to slow a motor as seen on the Ferris Wheel set -- and this puppy will rotate itself to the content of the two of y'all.

Michael Organiscak Hi Michael, thanks for your posts and questions.  Thanks also to Paul George for posting more photos of his awesome setup.  Personally, I want to know if it's possible for *us* to buy from Paul and get that cool moat and surrounding landscape in LEGO!

For the Lazy Susan option, yes we will be looking at offering two versions:

1. One with the slip ring pre-installed
2. One as a DIY kit where you use a 8mm drill bit yourself to hollow out the center of your Susan.  We supply the slip ring

We've had interest in both options.  As Paul mentioned, right now we're slammed getting ready to send the first batch of orders, so look for more details on options soon.  We're also cooking up some additional add-ons to the castle kit that I'm sure will make many Disney fans VERY happy.

Also, a quick update on today's progress: we connected our demo castle model with remote control for the first time (until today, we'd just been testing parts individually vs. the whole), and it was just as spectacular as I'd hoped it would be.  We're heading down to Chicago on Thursday for the Brickworld LEGO convention, and we'll have our castle with us.  It'll be the first time we're displaying it in public, and it will have the full functionality onboard (including turntable).  So look for more photos and videos coming over the weekend!

Rick Prescott It's a blending of white plates nearest the "shore," then medium blue or medium azure (whatever I could find cheapest on Bricklink that day) and regular blue in the center, with trans light-blue 1x2 tiles on top laid out in 2x2 blocks (with the pattern the opposite of the adjoining 2x2 set, either a "basket weave" or "square basket" tile pattern, depending on whom you ask. 

It's on my to-do list to post a quick tutorial on the Instagram page the kid and I share (username "legometro")... even though the original intent was to chronicle our build of the notoriously cool Green Gables Stadium MOC.

Lisa Sullivan Thanks for your question!  We have been thinking about automatic rotation options, ideally using LEGO parts so the speed could be controlled with the LEGO IR remote and receiver.  No progress yet on this, but technically anything is possible with LEGO!  Stay tuned.  Once we focus more attention on the turntables, we'll be experimenting with several options and will share ideas here.

Hello everyone, just a quick update here about the turntable options for displaying your Castle with external power (so you can rotate the Castle 360 degrees without pinching wires).  We've created a new post on the Forum dedicated specifically to the turntable topic, since we feel this option can be used to display other LEGO models as well.  Head on over and check it out-- it includes links to both models of turntables we plan to support, and also a link to the drill bits you'll need to buy if you want to pick up our DIY kit for adding power.

Okay, admittedly only a third into the castle install, but just food for thought: instead of the sticky pads for the ceiling lighting, any consideration for a tile?  I first used pn #2654 when lighting the Assembly Square, and found it not only secures at least as well, but also seems to help disperse the light a bit more.

I get it'd certainly bump the wholesale cost a pinch (they seem to run about 2-3 cents a pop, certainly more than the adhesives), but at least given it's currently super humid [for our area, at least and hot this weekend, my pads ain't holding as much as I'd like - so switching over to the round plates.  :)

That's an outstanding question  Alison Narehood !

In past posts, and from my own past experience, there's no wrong answer.  In my case, I built fully before there was formal confirmation of a kit (and I was going to just "wing it" -- but now don't have to do so). 

Given I was lucky enough to be in the Group 1 folks, my kit's here and I can share that the instructions to install lighting are from the perspective of a castle already standing.  (For example, separate this wall from the base  there, then insert wire, and finally re-snap together.)

My GUESS is it's easier to do so from a pre-built castle, particularly if you really want to take full advantage of the written and photo-detailed step-by-step  instructions.

That said, it's probably not impossible to do so as you build, but my take would be it'd take additional noggin power to think around the 'top down' approach of the instructions (interior, then exterior, if you do both kits), versus a ground-up install, plan around some of the hide-here and stick-on connection points may not yet be built yet, etc...

Gregory Aw, shucks, I like sharing.

Including disclaimers.  🙂

1. This represents the INTERIOR lights in, and
2. I'm halfway into the EXTERIOR install... where I paused on purpose. (Given the need to pull this monster off the base plate, which is glued to a lazy susan, I'm waiting to proceed until the slip ring kits are available/in-hand, so I can finish it all at once), and then
3. I'll be able to deal with some "brick slip" - I found when pressing the pieces together thus far - given the lazy susan has some give to it when pushed upon, I'm not getting all the pieces to fully re-seat.  (And if that doesn't work, I'm not such a purist as to be be above swapping out bricks for older equivalent and taking a metal file to giving me room for the twisted wire pairs to sneak between a few of the walls on the tighter connections.)  This is most prominently seen in the third (front door) photo.
4. Yup, there's still interior and roof wires flopping around; been too lazy yet to tuck some of them away (and I goofed a bit and used the wrong wire length with the wrong side of the entry lights, so one's WAY too long, the other a hair too short, so I had to improve... another reason it looks a bit off...
5. I'm ditching the sticky pads for any roof mount that has at least 2x2 clearance, to use a "Round 2x2 with Rounded Bottom (Boat Stud)" (part # 2654) in trans-clear or yellow (based on my mood/the room) -- once they arrive from my Bricklink order.  The humidity or my inability to mount 'em right is messing with them staying put for me.

Paul George Thanks Paul, that's a really great suggestion. We use those "boat stud" parts for the lights in the Ghostbusters Firehouse HQ set, but until your suggestion, I hadn't considered them for ceiling lighting.  It looks like they would fit into all of the Castle lighting areas where we have a Pico LED in a ceiling (we tested it today in our shop), so again, great suggestion.  Definitely something for us to consider!

Got my first five 'boat studs' in yesterday, and am loving both the look (closer fit to the ceiling)... and that they can double as a wire management aid -- because, obviously, I'm lacking in that department thus far.  (i.e. that 1x2 plate in the back left corner.)

Also got low-tech crafty on the kitchen pico, after finding I had more light than I desired "leaking" upward through the wedge tile.  The black 2x2 plate ain't elegant, but it's effective.  🙂

Paul George Great photos of the boat stud solution, Paul!  I especially like the kitchen solution.  Those really are handy parts.

Rick Prescott you make be blush - experienced, well... just note I've not shared how "well" my wiring has gone in some places.  (I've muttered that a hacksaw is going to fix a few of my problem areas... redefining 'plastic surgery' for cosmetic improvement <-- me.)