Jon Pahta Hi Jon, sorry for the missing A15 board!  I see you ordered 2x 2-packs, for a total of 4 boards.  I will be refunding your cost for 1x of the boards plus your shipping cost, but did you need that second 2-pack?  If not we can cancel it and refund the cost for that as well.

Lorna Stern Hi Lorna, they do tend to come off if you are moving your castle around a lot.  While we don't normally like to use the "G" word (Glue), it might make sense if they keep coming off for you.  Another less permanent option would be to use Scotch tape on the bottom of the parts to hold them on.

Jon Pahta Thanks Jon, we'll go ahead and refund your entire order since you only need one, and we'll send that one today at no cost.

Jon Pahta Looks fantastic!

Michael Organiscak Thanks Michael for hanging in there with the install.  We don't have an update to the instructions yet, but if you have specific feedback about what we could improve in the instructions, please let me know.

Good luck with the interior setup, and let us know if you run into snags.

This is a tricky one no matter how you slice it; the lights are effectively dangling off the ends.  In my case, I mounted the castle onto a lazy susan, so it's protected in that manner. Other options.

1. The dreaded KraGle
2. Le-Glue.  On Amazon, a kid invented it; it's a water soluable glue... so sticky when you want it, and submerge it a bit -- with the power off of course -- to loosen it up again
3. Tape
4. An add-on layer or base, effectively creating a build-on to support it.
5. Your ideas...?

Ultimately, it's dicey in that we've got a teeny 1x2 plate gizmo held on by a single stud/dot, and that's not super secure if you're moving it around.  :S

Michael Organiscak Any wire areas in particular, or all of them?

I ask not to sound snarky, just as the Exterior kit has a bunch of moving parts... or wires, in this case.

If it's all, I'll bust out the camera - no problem - just didn't want to provide an A-Z summary of my approach if the problem area is just E-F.  🙂

That was a bear of a wire-stuffing... several connection area where the highways all converge can get congested.  Below is my hack at it, including some off-list steps.  (Either because it was easier, it spoke to my laziness, or I didn't like how, say, light was bleeding through places.)

Using my dorky words, I stuffed most of the wires in the lower portion of the center tower.  The two wires running "north" of it are for the clock backlight, and the remote control sensor wire. 

Everything else is stuffed, gracefully...? ;) into this space.  I did put a 1x8 plate with two dots on the ends to mount the 1:8 board (whatever we call that) and tacked that down.  But beyond that, I would have failed Cable Management 101 - it's mostly stuffed in there, gently.  Because there was some light bleed-over, I then built the white and LBG wall to keep the wires from flopping out.  (Row of gray with inverted slopes out - to allow wires at the base to run past, then two rows of white and tapered off with the top white row, and a cute tile top for no particular reason at all.)

High-res photo!

Michael Organiscak Be my guest: it's pictured below.  The "bleed through" seems to be from the 2-LED strip below (lighting the wall below the clock, it seems).  Can't remember why it annoyed me, but the wall - if nothing else - does nicely tuck the wires away.

On the controller, what is it you're expecting it to do, and what is it doing?  (Just messin' with my castle, it's mostly on-off from the remote, but I seem to recall the controller's dials adjust the multi-effect light show (speeds it up/down).

• 1x8 top plate
• 2x 1x2 slopes and a 1x6 brick
• Whatever it takes to make two tiers of 10-dot brick rows, and
• 2x inverted 1x2 slopes and a 1x6 brick

Colors aren't terribly relevant, just what I had.  The lower inverted slopes allowed wires to pass without pinching. 

My other wire trick is to un-twist/wind the wires when they pass under or through bricks to lower their profile.  And when push comes to shove, the Swiss Army knife in hand, I'll notch a teeny upside-down "V" cut to allow wires to pass: I'm good with altering a 9¢ brick versus damaging a $8+ LED wire.

Michael Organiscak so happy you have the install complete!  Thanks very much, Paul George for your help and photos.

What's not working with the two controllers?  Are you able to toggle between color-cycling mode and fireworks mode, but the problem is just that both the upper and lower lights are doing the same thing?  Do you have two controllers?  One for the top and one for the bottom that look like this:

The 3-pin plug (in the top of the photo above) for the upper controller should connect to the upper color-changing spotlights and the fireworks, and the 3-pin plug on the lower controller should connect to the lower color-changing spotlights.

Happy to help troubleshoot-- just let us know what behavior you're experiencing with the two controllers.

Thanks again for hanging in there!

Crissy Chan Hi Chrissy, since you were an early purchaser, it will probably be best to use the guide that's included with your kit.  While we have changed some things with the kit since you purchased it, your kit may not map to the most current version of the instructions.  I'll send you a direct message to download the PDF instructions (latest version)-- again I'd recommend using the version that came with  your kit and comparing that to your version if they differ.