New Millennium Falcon # 75192

We've received many questions about our plans for a lighting kit for the beautiful new Millennium Falcon (LEGO set #75192).  We have developed a kit for this model that includes not only lights, but SOUND as well.

We're working to get the kits ready for shipment beginning in February 2018.  There are so many amazing features in the kit that we had to create a website dedicated just to the kit:

www.lightmyfalcon.com

Plenty of photos, videos (with sound!) and detail about this amazing kit.

I'm starting this new Forum post so anyone out there who either has the set or who has ideas about what they'd like to see in a lighting and sound kit can let us know.  We're still early in the process, so make your voice known!

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  • Jay Hamilton We tend to agree with Tom Moisey that the USB power source offers the most flexibility.  USB power banks tend to be less expensive than the LEGO rechargeable battery boxes, and we're finding with the AAA LEGO battery box that the AAA batteries can't keep the kit running for very long.  Hope this helps-- feel free to ask any additional questions you may have.  Thank you for your interest in our Falcon kits!

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  • Rob Klingberg  .. my kit arrived today! Did a quick test of the engine lights and sounds and it’s amazing! Can’t wait to get the rest of it installed ! 👍

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  • Tom Moisey Sweet!  I hope you enjoy the kit.

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  • Finished building the set today and it's amazing!! 

    I have one question though: When I open the landing bay, the landing lights come on. But when I press the power button on the remote control, everything switches off except for these lights (including the led strip in the landing bay). They stay on. As the Falcon sits out of reach, I'd like to be able to turn these lights off with the remote control as well.

    What should I change in the connections to be able to power off the landing lights using the remote control? 

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  • Jeff Hi Jeff, thanks for your note and for posting the videos.  Your setup looks amazing.  I'm glad you are enjoying the lights and sound.

    To answer your question about the landing lights, you can make them work with the master on/off switch by connecting them to the other 1/2 BRANCH11 board.  If you look at the wiring diagram in the instructions for Section 4, you'll see the landing lights connect to the 1/2 BRANCH11 board on top.

    You can disconnect the landing lights from this 1/2 BRANCH11 board and connect them to the other one.  See the yellow circle int he diagram below-- connect the power for the landing lights here and everything should now switch on/off with the master power switch.

    Let me know how this works.  Thanks again!

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  • Rob Klingberg Thank you very much Rob! I’ll try this out. 

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  • Rob Klingberg Thanks Rob, works like a charm!

    I didn’t have room in that branch 11 board, so I disconnected the interior lights (which I also need to be able to switch off) I’ll order an additional board and cables sometime later, for now it’s good :)

    Cheers, Jeffry

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  • I added an effects controller to the Millennium Falcon lights to cause the red docking bay lights and the red mandible light to slowly blink in the manner of marker lights.  Recently my battery packs needed to be replaced (for the first time).  When I powered the lights up I discovered that the effects controller had changed programs to a flicker effect.

    Should the effects controller hold the program selection through loss of power?  What could have caused it to change program?  It's going to be a pain to open things up to be able to get in to it to change program again.

    Larry

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  • Jeff Glad it worked!  Another idea, that may spare the need to order additional parts: the BRANCH10 board that most of the rear room interior lights are connected to-- does that have one free large plug on the end?  If so, you could also connect the landing lights there.

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  • Larry Andersen Hi Larry, this can happen when the effect controller is itself connected to an unstable power input (like when there is a lot of electrical interference on the line).  The effects setting should be preserved through a power cycle-down.  Thinking through what's inside the Falcon, this shouldn't have been an issue.  Are you able to try setting the effect, then disconnecting and re-connecting power again to see if the LEC reverts to flicker mode?  If it's still misbehaving, we can look at sending you a filter capacitor to smooth out the power input.  Can you make a drawing of how you have everything connected to the LEC, and how the LEC itself is connected?  This will help us determine the best path forward.

    Thanks!

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  • Rob Klingberg  Hi Rob, here's a simplified wiring diagram.  One thought I had about my problem is that it happened after the rechargeable battery ran low enough that it shut itself off.  Possibly a low voltage from the battery allowed the processor to go into an unknown state?  Just a thought.    Fresh batteries installed, re-selected blinking effect, and program stays the same when power is cycled. 

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  • Larry Andersen Hi Larry, thanks for making the diagram.  All looks good, and that's exactly how I would have connected it myself.  My guess is that when the rechargeable battery went low like you said, it caused a power spike and/or unstable power, which tripped the LEC.  If it happens again, let me know and I can send you a filtering capacitor.

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  • Finally have the time to get started! 😀 Opened the kit and had a giggle at the engine lights.

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  • Also, have done schematic capture & PCB layout in the past for a custom engineering firm, I'm loving the custom made PCBs in here and can really appreciate the work & consideration that went into the design.

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  • Loving the next level thinking in this kit!

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  • Hey Rob, any experience working with the Lego servo motor? I was thinking there just might be enough room over the ramp to automate raising and lowering it.

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  • One small rearrangement I made to the wiring: I moved the connection to to the A3 board from the front A15 board to the other connector on the light strip and changed around where the lights connected. This allowed for better wire hiding through the back right cavity to where I was able to hide the board in the back. This re-wiring also allowed me to use the cavity under the LASER cannon to hide the mid A15 board and its wiring and also hide the front A15 board in the cavity just a few inches behind where the mandible A4 board is located. I was able to hide the two A4 boards for the engine lights and the A3 board for the two rear landing lights under the 4x12 plate behind the engine speaker. Now I just need to go order another 24" connecting cable for the cockpit/game room A15 as that's the only cable (because of my own re-wiring) that isn't long enough route and hide.

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  • Actually, I was able to take the 24" from the light strip to the A3 and replace it with a 12" so I was able to re-route my front connections after all!

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  • Eric Stiff Great suggestion for mounting!

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  • Eric Stiff The LEGO servo motor is a bit of an odd animal-- it doesn't work using "normal" servo signals, so you can't use any standard servo library (Arduino, etc.) to control it.  Also, it uses 9V vs. the 5V inside our system so controlling it would be a bit challenging.  If you can find a way to fit it in, though, please do start a new thread on the forum and show us what you did!

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  • Eric Stiff Great stuff-- thank  you for the diagram and for sharing the details.  Question: did you decide to change the wire routing because you wanted to make room for more interior mods (I know some people are choosing to add rooms in the right rear and right front of the Falcon)?

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  • Rob Klingberg  The right rear is still the "equipment" room where the engine speaker, sound module, batteries and primary connections are located. Being a tinkerer at heart I was also looking for a way to centralize or hide as many of the connections as possible. I took quite a few pictures but the forum interface doesn't work too well to post from a mobile device. The "reply" button turns into a "save" button after attaching pictures, even if I have desktop mode turned on. Once I get them on my laptop (I'll be sure to compress them) I'll post how I did what I did. Thanfully the Technics spacing in the Falcon allowed for rotation of the yellow support so I could mount that one board the way I did or I would have needed to get a shorter Technics support.

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  • Rob Klingberg  Pic 1 shows where I used the center of the engine section as a way to clamp the inside edge of the engine lights board. I left the  diffuser free to help diffuse the light better towards the center of the engines. I'm looking at the different engine mods out there to built a trans-blue brick version instead of the tubes. 2 is just an overview of the equipment room. 3 shows where the wire comes through between plates where I mounted the landing light in the space between four pegs. 4 is just another overview. 5 & 6 show the same rear landing light LED from underneath and from top where I mounted it in a way that the wire would not get pinched. 7 is the board I mounted using Technic pin/studs. 8 & 9 are where I hid the A3 and A4 boards under the plate behind the engine speaker. 9 shows where I removed one brick to allow wire entry into that space. 10, 14, & 15 show where I did a little creative wire management with spare pieces. I forgot to circle the one directly behind the speaker in 10. 11 just shows how I routed wiring around the through the middle cavity to make sure no wires interfered with inserting the top LASER cannon. 12 is the front most compartment connections for the game room lights. 13 is where I hid the board for the four front landing lights. 16 is how I angled the Technic support for the center exhaust fans since I used its bottom hole as a board mount. And 17 is where I hid the LASER cannon sound module and center four landing lights board. I really need to clean up the wiring in there. I mounted the IR receiver directly on one of the batteries as there are enough gaps and reflective surfaces that the signal still gets right on down in there.

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  • Eric Stiff great stuff!  Thank you so much for sharing all of the photos.  You did amazing work with the wires, and the Brickstuff tile looks nice on the batteries as well. :-)

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