Freakmaster OK I'll see what I can do.  I'll post it in the video and we can change it if you don't like it.

Freakmaster Almost done with the project-- video uploading now.  One question though before I can finish: LED number 2.1.4 in the setup (the one that is on the edge of the module that needs to be disconnected), what type of mounting is that?  Is it on a 2x2 jumper, 1x2 jumper, 1x1 plate, or?  I need to know because that cable needs to be specially made.  Please let me know, thanks!

UPDATE: here is the video.  Please make sure to answer the question above about LED number 2.1.4.  And let me know if you have any feedback on the effects setup-- based on our conversations, I think it achieves what we discussed.

Freakmaster OK, thanks.  Did you see the video above?  Thoughts?

Freakmaster I'm glad you like it.  Is your question above related to the red (flashing) lights or the black (floor) lights?  For the lights mounted in the black parts, I have just made as many of each as you indicated (2x mounted into a 1x1 black plate, 12x mounted into a 1x2 jumper, and 14x mounted into a 2x2 jumper)-- the exact position of the lights isn't important, only the one that needed to have the special plug because of its location.  That was the only one I needed to know.

So, based on what you see above, is everything complete?

Freakmaster No the trans clear plates for the flashing lights are not permanent-- you can replace them with trans red.  No problem.  I just didn't have enough red plates in the office. :-)

Freakmaster Great.  I'll get everything packed up and sent out this week.

Freakmaster Everything is packed and ready to send today!  Please let us know when you receive it, and please share photos/videos once you have it all set up.  Thank you again for your patience.

Brian Haggard Hi Brian, thanks for your message and for your interest in a landing bay setup similar to Freakmaster 's.  Are you building from the same landing bay designs?  I wasn't sure if this was a published model somewhere with an .lxf or xml file for building that others are replicating and building their own copies of the set, or if each person was doing their own landing bay design.  This matters of course with the LEDs that need to be pre-mounted as in the black tiles/plates on the floor.

With your requested customizations (for mounting inside a cabinet, etc.), the biggest challenge is making the remote control functions accessible.  Here is the control board we use to manage all of the effects:

As you can see, the board has a dial, a switch, and a push button, all of which are used to control/set effect parameters and operation.  Making any of these controls accessible in a remote location is very difficult.  The large pushbutton like the one we sell cannot be used because it is an on/off button, but the board above uses a momentary button, etc.  The only solution I can see for this is to be able to mount the entire board outside your cabinet (it is not large-- just the size of a 2x6 LEGO plate).  This would give you access to all of the controls.  The lights themselves can be connected at a distance to the board itself-- we have 24" cables, and you can connect multiple 24" cables to extend the reach if needed.

Do you think this setup would work to provide control?  As I mentioned, this is the best/only way I can see to accomplish what you're requesting.

I'll respond to your questions in a separate reply....

Brian Haggard OK to answer your specific questions:

1. OK, that will reduce the cost a bit.
2. Two more blinking lights could be added with the addition of another daughterboard (3 outputs), a splitter board, and a cable.
3. Any number of additional "always on" lights could be connected to the main power input.
4. OK
5. See my earlier reply about the technical constraints related to your requests here.
6. Wires can be run under base plates, but there are no holes in base plates, so this poses a very large challenge.  Also, having done the setup for Freakmaster I think some space directly below the hangar is necessary to contain both the control boards and the wires.  The lead wires coming from the LEDs are not long enough to reach back to a central location, for example.  They need to connect to their controlling board within 15-18" of where the LED is located.  I'm sure this isn't the answer you want to hear, but building the hangar on plates with space underneath is the only way I see to make everything work.
7. Flat tiles can be used *if* the LED is positioned inside the hollow stud of a jumper plate.  This allows the LED to sit down inside the hole in the middle of the jumper plate stud while having a completely flat tile on top.  If the LED needs to sit on top of a regular stud (like in a brick or plate), tiles cannot be used on top because there is no room (the LED sits on top of the stud and needs the open space in the underside of a plate on top to fit the LED).  I hope this is clear-- let me know if you have any questions here.

I think I've answered all of your questions-- if not, please let me know.  Thank you again for your interest in our lighting effect kits!

Brian Haggard Yes, the pushbutton we sell can still be used for the master on/off for the display, and settings on the effect board will be preserved at power-off.

Brian Haggard You could certainly drill holes in the baseplates, and in normal cases the wires could be run beneath, however in the case of the landing bay, the size is too large to accommodate a single wire run without needing to encounter a splice or adapter board; this is when you run into the need for space as splices and/or adapter boards, you can't just fit these under a baseplate.  So in the case of a building like a LEGO Modular, certainly. wires can be run either under the baseplate or under the plates/tiles on top of the baseplate, because you can make a single wire run to the back, inside, or someplace where you can connect to an adapter board, but with the landing bay, it's just too large for single wire runs.  I hope this makes sense.  The limiting factor here is the size of the build-- it's just too large to accommodate an uninterrupted wire run (our longest LED cables are 12"), and with the way the effect setup works for the landing lights, every LED needs to connect directly into an adapter board (can't use extension cables between the LED and the board).

In a normal installation (i.e., one without a custom lighting effect setup like this), it would be possible to use the 12" LED cables to connect to an adapter board, after which you could run as many 24" cables as needed.  Again, that's the limitation here-- because of the need to control each LED individually to make the landing strip effect, each LED can be no more than 12" away from its adapter board.  It's not an issue of not wanting to have long extensions, just an issue of needing to connect LEDs directly to their controller boards, and yes our LED cables are pre-made for us in maximum lengths of 12".

For Freakmaster 's setup, I drilled each plate/jumper so the LED could mount down inside without the wire being visible.  This needs to be done by us at the factory prior to shipping, so in his case, we ordered the parts from Bricklink and modified them before shipping out his kit.

Hopefully this is helping clarify a bit-- please let me know if you have any additional questions.  Thank you!

Freakmaster Nice!  Happy you were able to get the LBG/DBG issue resolved.  Can't wait to see the photos and videos.  Out of curiosity, which wire was too short?

Freakmaster Absolutely fantastic.  Do you have a video with the Falcon inside the bay also and the lights running?